By Patrick Johnston
I’m back in Boracay. Don’t ask me why. Twenty odd years ago it was a beautiful island with beautiful beaches. It still is. It’s just full of people and hotels and bars. You can sit under the palm trees and look at the powder white sand and the glass pure water. But there are people.
Sleep in a bamboo hut. At night they used to set up impromptu restaurants on the beach. Candle light and the sound of lapping waves. It was beautiful. But there are hotels. And bars. And tattoo shops. And people.
I take in the sunset at a bar.
Whitebeach, closer to Station 2 than station 3. No thanks brother, I’ll have a coke. Yeah… I know the beer is cheaper… coke’s good. Regular.
There are four Island’s these days. All on the same island. It used to be different. Didn’t everywhere?
The first one you see is the glitz and glamour. The snazzy hotels and bars and restaurants. Fire-dance shows out the front. Places where the staff would have to work a four-hour shift to sit and drink a single Americano. Beach adjacent swimming pools where you can watch the sun go down over the ocean whilst trading water and drinking a Margarita. Kite surfing, scuba diving, hire a sail boat. Boracay number one belongs to the International Tourists. There are strata. But they are not obvious. Everybody is equally curated on Instagram…
The second Island is the habitat of Filipino tourists. The hotels are set back from the beach. The vibe is aspirational. The more aspiration you have fulfilled the closer you sleep to the beach. The more aspiration still in abeyance, the further back. There are restaurants on the beach and restaurants further back. The vibe is aspirational. Well to do families eat at buffet restaurants next to the sand. Two thousand pesos to feed a family of six. Then there’s JolliBee. Then there’s restaurants in the beach alleys and on the main drag. Then there’s holes in the wall selling rice and meat for 80 pesos. A cold long neck bottle of Red Horse from the 7-11. A warm long neck bottle of Red Horse from The John Alexander Enterprise. You are where you eat. You are where you sleep. There are strata.
Island number three belongs to the locals. It has strata upon strata and strata within strata. There are people who own hotels and bars and restaurants. Of varying degrees of prestige, price and quality. There are people who work in hotels of varying degrees of prestige, price and quality. From bright smiling uniforms and name tags, standing in smiling welcome rows, to toothless smiling grandmas, lounging with a fan beckoning through open doorways.
There’s people who run the stores for the tourists, and there’s people who run stores for the locals. People who own the Sari Sari stores, people who work in the convenience stores, people who work in the Sari Sari stores. Trike Guys who hang around to do 100 peso runs for a tourist. Trike guys who run a bus shuttle for the locals. There’s Dive Masters and there’s guys that fill and lug the tanks. There’s peanut men, there’s tout-a-boat men, there’s sunglasses men and t-shirt men. The men fixing the path. Half of them are always chilling. They rotate shifts. The heat is brutal.
And then there’s the people who sit and wait. There’s massage women, there’s hair braid women. There’s guys with a motor cycle. All baking in the sun, waiting for a trigger event.
If sitting waiting was an Olympic sport, the Filipinos would slouch away with gold every time. They are fucking world class. God knows how they did it before they got smartphones and TikTok videos.
There are parts of the island that the tourists never see. And if they did see they wouldn’t believe. And why would they? There’s steep dark alleys that go up the hill off the main drag back from the beach, hidden gaps between a row of shops. Up behind the small Mosque there is a shanty-town slum that could be from any part of Asia anytime in the last 50 years. An almost monolithic structure thrown together from boards, and roof tin, and planks and flotsam and jetsam, dirt paths, dirt doors, dirt floors. Dirt poor. Tin roofs because you need something to help heat up the joint in this climate, right? Tin roofs because nothing else is gonna keep the monsoon out. You live the way you gotta live. And this is where the islands most unfortunate eke out their days. They sure as fuck ain’t wearing a name tag that says Dale.
Island number 4 is the expats… but they are liminal. They don’t put up a sign. There are few of them. They live as part of the rich part of the local population. Maybe they own a dive school or a small hotel. They have families. Filipino wives. A bunch of beautiful brown island babies. They eat at home. They eschew the beach front. Maybe meet a buddy in one of the bars for a beer and to watch the sports once in a while. Go through the daily struggles. But with less struggle than the rest of the locals.
I take a walk.Down at the far end of the beach where the sands are empty are a couple of dead resorts. Maybe they were killed by the pandemic. Maybe they were dead before they even got built. They just sit there. Gathering tropical rot. A lone security guard to fend off squatters. A thousand pesos per day adding to someone’s accumulated losses. Maybe the land will be worth something again one day. The poor fuck just sits there day in day out. At least he’s got a job. With a uniform. How was your day, hun? Oh, you know… same-same.
Up the hill behind are families living in corrugated iron slum shacks the size of pigsties. Maybe the guard lives in one. It is what it is. In the Philippines it’s just more in your face.
Along the beachfront path working girls shimmer into existence from between the palm trees…
They rotate in and out. Stay in dorm rooms. Watch TikTok. Play in the surf. Make friends. Break friends. Work the beachfront in the evening. Bug out again to a different island before they get well enough known to feel some social disapproval from the locals. That’s coin that could be spent on my boat hire…
Hello sir… Massage sir? No thanks, I already got my massage, and it didn’t come with no inverted commas. Thanks for offer.
And back to the gloom she drifts…
I stay here for a month pushing rusty chunks of iron in a sweltering bamboo gym. Resting in the heat. Walking in the evening. Praying at sunset. The brothers are wary for a day or too, but they warm up, Muslim style. Same cafe most evenings. Make small nice with Maria and Django.
Early each evening after Maghreb I go for a massage.
At the same salon. With the same masseuse. A petite Morena with small perfect hands, and whose imperfect teeth add to the perfection of her smile. Her presence is warm and gentle. Her touch is kindness itself.
I think she knows I’m a little bit in love with her.
I would never say it.
I think she knows that too.
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